I have seen alot of threads talking about pulleys being a waste. But, they are known to make 5hp/5tq gains, which is pretty common. So I just wanted to start a thread up again and get some real opinions, on why they are so bad? 5hp/5tq to me, seems pretty good, you really want all you can get. You can pick up a set of pulleys for $75-$150 new or used. That is a pretty cheap bolt on really. Alot of guys in the import world spend big bucks on full exhaust systems, that will not even net as much as 5hp/5tq. What are your thoughts?

Here is an old write up 5.0 Magazine did.
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/33479/index4.html

The other reason I wanted to do this thread, is because I am thinking of picking some up, but just wanted to revisit it for the 1 millionth time! :D


BTW: SoCalPerformance.net smilies rule, but I think I said that before.:weed:

its 5hp..you really won't feel that..why waste the money on them?

its 5hp..you really won't feel that..why waste the money on them?

Cause it is 5hp, I am sure lots of people would love an extra 5hp added to their dyno! :) Doesnt 230hp sound better than 225hp? ;)

That extra 5hp might help you win a race and you wont even know it. Heck, if you raced the same car as yours, but it did not have pulleys, you have the advantage.:banana:

They didn't (or don't) give much benefit on mod motors.

many people had issues with balance and damage (cam?) due to underdrive pulleys.

The risk was worth the 5hp gain at the crank.

They didn't (or don't) give much benefit on mod motors.

many people had issues with balance and damage (cam?) due to underdrive pulleys.

The risk was worth the 5hp gain at the crank.

Cam damage from underdrive pulleys? I would like to see that or read up on that...sounds very strange. :shck:

BTW: 5hp at the wheels. ;)

crank damage

and they still don't do much, 225 hp versus 230 hp? either way your shits still slow so why not save that money and put it towards something that will gain you more power..like heads, cams, blower, intake, etc

crank damage

and they still don't do much, 225 hp versus 230 hp? either way your shits still slow so why not save that money and put it towards something that will gain you more power..like heads, cams, blower, intake, etc


Plus one on this one...

I remember frank telling me the same thing.

So far all the negative replies are coming from here. :wave:

Stangnet and SCS are saying good things.

Yorchi is saying he gained 30whp with just shorty headers and UDPs. Of course he has a Mach, but I would expect 20+ with a GT.

Depends on the engine. If it is internally balanced, I can't see how in the world anything outside would affect the crank in terms of damage. If that was the case, lightening the flywheel would attribute to crank damage also

The VQ30 is internally balanced, so UDP's are okay.

So far all the negative replies are coming from here. :wave:

Stangnet and SCS are saying good things.

Yorchi is saying he gained 30whp with just shorty headers and UDPs. Of course he has a Mach, but I would expect 20+ with a GT.
yorchi got tuned too, dumbass. that adds more than shorties and pullies. add to that, he's got a 4v which will always respond better to mods than a 2v, and now you know why he gained a lot of power.

stanget is like "my first stang site", those fucking kids don't know an x pipe from an h pipe. i used to post on there back in 2000.

yorchi got tuned too, dumbass. that adds more than shorties and pullies. add to that, he's got a 4v which will always respond better to mods than a 2v, and now you know why he gained a lot of power.

stanget is like "my first stang site", those fucking kids don't know an x pipe from an h pipe. i used to post on there back in 2000.

So would you say that steeda pulleys and steeda timing kit, with the timing bumped a little and tuned is worth it?

on your car, IMHO, you'd gain MAYBE 7-8 rwhp AND you'd need to run 91 octane all the time because of the timing jump..if that is worth it to you, then by all means go for it.

and btw, you dont get a tune AND a timing adjuster..you do one or the other, in this case the timing adjuster is cheaper so if you really want to, go with that

i suggest going to stangnet's 4.6 section and using the search function, for basic boltons, there is a wealth of information available.

on your car, IMHO, you'd gain MAYBE 7-8 rwhp AND you'd need to run 91 octane all the time because of the timing jump..if that is worth it to you, then by all means go for it.

and btw, you dont get a tune AND a timing adjuster..you do one or the other, in this case the timing adjuster is cheaper so if you really want to, go with that

i suggest going to stangnet's 4.6 section and using the search function, for basic boltons, there is a wealth of information available.

The 91 octane is not worth it, but it seems when you start bumping the hp/tq, you have to go with 91 pretty quick.

I'm running an SCT 2 tune on 91 octane and will be getting Steeda Underdrive pully's soon. I think I should feel the difference.

The 91 octane is not worth it, but it seems when you start bumping the hp/tq, you have to go with 91 pretty quick.
yes..you do..you have to pay to play

Donald, when will you listen ?? Mother of God !

Some of us know what we are talking about, and are trying to SAVE you money. What works on a Maxima, doesnt work on a stang. Also, what works on Andrews fox, wont always work on your modular motors.

Plus one on this one...

I remember frank telling me the same thing.

Haha, don't listen to Frank. His car is still slow! j/k.
That's a guy who doesn't get an alignment because he doesn't take corners fast.

Just get the UDP. If you're N/A, small mods help.

if you plan on staying N/A, every bit of hp counts..I've done pulleys on every stang I've owned and had no problems whatsoever....I decided to go with a ATI balancer and a Mez water-pump on my current stang...will I gain mucho hp from it? prolly not...But I have a SFI balancer and a better water-pump....I've learned you take what you can get with a N/A set-up 4.6....DA snake boy!!!!

im pretty sure it all depends on compliment mods as well. if you are only doing a crank pully you will only see maybe 5-6 hp. but there was a guy a while back that installed an alternator underdrive pully and a crank pully and gained 13 at the wheels.

the most common problem ive ever heard about was alternator not being able to charge correctly or havin electrical issues. especially if you have a sound system.

If the car is a street car i's say hell no to UDP. Why get 5hp for weak AC and possibly low volts at WOT causing fuel starvation. I'd also stay away from timing adjusters unless you really know what you are doing (and running 91).

Donald needs to read the above post, and see what I was trying to tell him yesterday. I had problems on my Fox when I did UD pulleys. I took them off and everything was solved.